DgsOregon's Blog

October 15, 2009

Part # 3 My Summer Vacation (:>) !

Filed under: Alaska,Canada,Canada and Alaska,travel — dgsoregon @ 8:43 pm
Tags: , ,

Part 3 of &.. Check out part #1 and 2 ..Part #1 starts as of  May 26th, 2009

*Note Part 2 may be hooked to this part 3… scroll down.

June 3rd through June 5th

Don  June 3rd, I leave the Airforce Lodge at Watson Lake early and start-up the Campbell Highway. The Yukon’s  Highway #4.  The first 30 miles is paved and then I came to road construction. After about a 1/2 hour wait they sent me through the construction by myself and told me to use my 4 wheel drive since much of the grading was still soft and to give the equipment a wide berth and watch for signals from the operators. This construction was about 10 miles long and really not too bad at all. Was interesting to see how they do their highway construction, different from the states, no escort car on this project, but every equipment operator was aware of you and usually signaled you on or had you wait  a minute or two. They were not paving  just redoing the gravel road and widening the areas on the side of roads. Much of the area here is somewhat boggy yet from the winter snows. After passing a couple smaller lakes and a  Jack Rabbit  I see a another Grizzly Bear and once again get a nice butt shot of it going into the woods. They seem to be much more skidish than the black bears.  Grizzly0047060309blog

About noon I notice this old Cabin which had seen better days and I would see several old cabins like this one  over the next few days.

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Soon I come to one of the nicest spots on the Campbell Highway, Simpson Lake camp grounds.

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This is really a nice Lake and campground. There was only one person camped there when I pulled in to have some lunch. The view from there is just amazing with the snow on the mountains behind it. I believe that those mountains are called the Simpson Range. This was turning out to be a beautiful day and I could see fish, even a noon jumping for bugs. The mosquitoes were not bad at all for there was a slight breeze. While I was taking some pictures the Camp Operator came by and we talked about just about everything under the Yukon sun. He visited the area about 25 years ago as a young man from Germany. He went back home to Germany and got his papers in order to move to Canada’s Yukon. He lucked out and was able to get the job he wanted and has lived there ever since. Now married with a couple kids and lives there 12 months a year. The camp  job has little to do in the Winter (since the parks are under about 5 feet of snow and frozen solid.  It is common to get down to minus 30 or 40  degrees (F)  or  below. )  So he works some traps in the winter and enjoys outdoors sports like cross  country skiing  and snowmobiling. Trapping for furs are a big part the economy in the Yukon. He still has his German accent and the Canadian { a-boot } sounds a bit strange . Really nice fellow and very knowledgeable about Canada, the States and our issues with the economy and Illegal immigration. He didn’t understand why we let people stay in the US when we know they are illegal. He said; that’s not the way in western Canada, if they catch an illegal person they either leave the country or go to jail. He thought it was very important that people immigrating to a new country such as Canada believe in their new counties laws and forget the laws of the old country. He was a real Canadian Citizen.   I forgot to ask him, but most Lakes with a small Island on them call the Island a ” Honeymoon Island” so I did too. So after a nice visit, a good lunch and some photo takeing, I moved on.  The next large lake I came to was Finlayson Lake, from the view spot I had it was incredible in size and still partly frozen.

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Soon the landscape changes, the forest is dying from the Pine  Bark Beetle, as far as one can see the trees are affected. Then the  down the road a bit I see this Moose staring at me, this shot is a bit fuzzy.

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I saw this Bald Eagle in the distance, was able to get this photo, but by time I changed to a longer zoom lens it had taken off.  Notice the trees, they are all dying from the Bark Beatles. Sad to see what could have grown into a beautiful forest turn brown and die. This situation also increases the fire danger. Today was a long drive in time, not so many miles, maybe 200. 95% gravel and dirt road. Saw 2 grizzly bears, 1 Moose, 2 White rabbits, 2 gray rabbits, and 1 bald Eagle. Camping tonight at a pull off on the Hoole River.

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After I had my dinner a construction worker ( Buck ) drove in to check on the river and see if the fishing was going improve soon. The river was still running a bit fast and muddy, but he thought that in a few more days it would be good. He lives outside of Whitehorse and is a highway engineer surveyor. Said; he has been doing that now for 35 years and moved to Canada from Minnesota. Loves it there and would never think about moving back to the states. Asked me if I wanted to drive down to his home and have dinner with him and his wife, but I had just finished mine, so I said no thanks. With the increase in daylight his day begins at  4 am and runs until 11 pm. He said they catch up on their sleep in the winter.   Loves the longer hours, he can still get some fishing in after work. At about 8pm he took off for home in a cloud of dust. Dust I had seen a lot of it today, so I sat down and cleaned my cameras. I have now traveled 2194 miles from home. Slept in the  back of the Jeep that night  and didn’t hear another vehicle all night.

June 4th, 2009

Weather looks good again today as I start back up on the dusty gravel road heading northeast towards Alaska. In about 5 miles I come to more construction. Summer time is the only time Canada can work on these roads, so construction is just about everywhere. Shortly I see “Buck” with his Surveyor’s equipment along side the road. We briefly say good morning and he says I missed a good elk steak last night. Soon the landscape is changing again.

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As I move down to lower ground there is lots of water, bog and  mosquitoes. Next stop I at Ross River and have  a cup of coffee chat with new owners.

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One of them said he has lived in the area for a long time, and when the motel and restaurant came up for sale after being closed for quite a time, he and a partner decided to buy and fix it up. Inside is pretty nice, still have a lot of work. On the way back to the main road from Ross River this dog comes down the road. At first I thought maybe it was lost, but I was only about three miles from Ross River and I had just passed a road construction area, so I think it belonged to one of the workers there. I stopped and called to it, but it was on a mission and was not going to be deterred.

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Shortly I come to the Lapie River Canyon and good views of the Pelly River. All this area and the next town I come to is in the Tintina Trench. http://www.canadiangeographic.ca/magazine/JA07/feature_tintina_trench.asp

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Faro was a splash of Color, Big Red truck, green lawns, white building and really nice people. I stopped for lunch at the local hotels restaurant ( not like Ross River) and then went to the tourist information center. Used their internet connection and chatted with the volunteers. As for the Red truck, it is the third mining truck of  its kind for the Anvil Mining Company and ran 24 hours a day for over 6 years starting back in 1968. Than I got some good advice as to where to find some Dall or Fannin’s  Sheep.

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These two shots were taken over a 1/2 mile away, across a canyon at midday. I was happy to see them come out on to the hillside. When I got to the view spot they told me about there was not a sheep to be seen. Than one came in sight and about 6 showed up in an hour crossing the hillside to this small semi shaded spot. Happy days for them and Me! This was one of the warmest days I had experienced in the Yukon. Shortly after leaving Faro and the sheep, I saw my first Brown Bear, not  a grizzly. BrownBear0464060409

As for the rest of the afternoon, I drive and drive on gravel and dirt mixed with mosquitoes  past several large lakes. Than I come the village of “Carmacks”, total population of about 430 people mostly first native. Here I come to the Yukon River and meet up with Highway #2.  Ahhhhh payment again how smooth and quite the old Jeep is (:>).. I now head North towards Dawson City looking for a camp spot. After trying several camp areas and other spots, I finally pulled off  onto another dirt road and try to reach a small summit for some air and little breeze. I don’t know who’s land I’m on, but I finally reach a somewhat open area and make it my home for the evening. It is warm and the mosquitoes are really not too  bad here. A couple of the spots I pulled off at earlier near the water, the mosquitoes were so bad you could hear them waiting for you, as I stepped out of the Jeep they were all over you.  I had a quick dinner, sent out my Spot message and downloaded my pictures of the day and walked around the area, nothing much to see.  Too hot to sit in the Jeep and I was trying to keep the mosquitoes out, so I kept the doors and windows closed. That was most likely my warmest nights sleep so far. It got semi dark about 11:30 pm and light again around 3:30 am. I have  now traveled 2498 miles from home. My journal said; “Miss my Wife, My Bed and My dog, but I’m still having a good time in spite of the dam mosquitoes”. I have a friend back in Beaverton who would have caught the first airplane south if he had to deal with these bugs. Even there in Oregon where we don’t have many mosquitoes they find him delicious.

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June 5th, 2009

That was a warm, long, light night. The days are really getting longer now and the nights shorter. As I leave my camping spot I see a really large male moose, but he moves in the woods before i could get a picture. Stopped at a place called Stewart Crossing for some coffee. Two truckers were in there just finishing breakfast and I asked them about the big front bumper guards on their rigs.  I said they remind me of cow catchers on a train, they both laughed and said no they were tourist catchers. I asked them if they mind me takeing some pictures of the bumpers, they said hell take all you want. When I was ready to go one of the truckers said I’ll walk out with you. On the way out he told me how much they save using them. He Said it you hit a full size moose or Bear at 60 or 70 miles per hour it can do up to $30,000 damage to front end. The Beefed up bumpers cost about $10,000 and usually can be repaired for a few hundred dollars after an accident.  I needed that coffee, mine does not seem to have enough kick to it. Still only 7:50 am when I leave the cafe. In a couple hours I come to the Yukon River and by noon I come to Dawson City.

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Dawson City is quite a town and was one of the busiest towns in the Gold Rush days. Today it has about 1400 people ( late 1800′s 40,000) and is a big tourist destination. They have painted up most of the old and some new building. The streets are still unpaved except for the main highway to the ferry crossing the Yukon River. There are huge piles of mining tailings all along the creeks from the mining dredges. I visited several shops, their museum and took a number of pictures. The first photo was actually taken after I left Dawson, crossed the Yukon by Ferry and was up on the hillside above the city. http://www.dawsoncity.ca/    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dawson_City

Oh yes, the average winter temp for Jan/Feb.  -30 degrees!  Burrr!

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The above photos are of a local horse pulled wagon ride and trip around town. The one next to it is of the Bunk House a sort of hotel , youth hostel. And above them are Entering City sign and a Ferry steamer that will take you up or down the Yukon river for some sight-seeing.

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This two Photo’s above are the Downtown Hotel and Klondike Kates restaurant.

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The two Photo’s above are of the Local Museum and a picture from a display inside of a tall figurine. I’ ll see another very much like this one later in Skagway. The museum was very interesting and I spent about 2 hours there and that’s a lot for me. After that I gassed up, restocked my cooler with ice ( at $4.00 a bag ) and some fresh milk, pop and goodies. Than headed for Alaska. To do so you have to  take a ferry across the Yukon River and follow the road to the “Top of the World Highway” .  Shortly I was climbing steep and curvy but paved road.  Around 5 pm I reach the summit and it is a wonderful view. A few more minutes and I can see the Border. This is the only Border crossing that I came across where the USA and Canadian Border guards where in the same building. Also it is only open from 8 am to 6 pm. After 6 they lock the a gate across the road.

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Soon I was at the Border. The Guard checked and stamped my passport book. Poker Creek Alaska. I was back in the USA. Time now was 5:50 pm and 4127 feet. Time to look for a camp area for tonight.  

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Now the road is down hill and back to dirt. Next town Chicken Alaska. Next section starting June 6th  will be part# 4.  See additional pictures of Alaska, Canada, England, Scotland and around the USA at:  www.donsiebelphotography.com

October 2, 2009

Part #2 of My Summer Vacation (:>)!

Filed under: Alaska,Canada,Canada and Alaska,travel — dgsoregon @ 11:24 pm
Tags: , ,

Part 2 of 7.. Check out part #1 for the beginning starting May 26th.

MAY 31 To June 2nd, 2009

DonMay 31st, 2009

I awake to a very soft sound hitting the outside of my tent, it’s snowing. Not hard but steady and big wet flakes. Not quite cold enough to really stick much, but it is turning things white. Oh boy, I get to take down a wet tent, I’m thinking “glad I’m not backpacking” Throw everything into the Jeep and head down the road looking for coffee. Instead I find this Caribou staring at me as I leave the camp ground. The next picture gives a good view of the ALCAN Hwy. Notice the wide cut back along the road, both Canada and Alaska do this where ever possible. Makes for a beautiful drive. Wild flowers and grasses mostly grow there and the animals love it. It  gives the driver time to see animals and slow down.

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Soon was in Fort Nelson, stopped for gas ( about $4.50 gal ) I believe this was the highest I had paid so far, got that cup of coffee, wish I hadn’t I think it had been brewing since 1942.  Visited the tourist information center and than the Ft. Nelson Heritage Museum.  http://www.fortnelsonbc.com/         This a very unusual museum, but was so interesting to me ( I like old cars and things ). Met “Marl Brown” the one with the beard and the founder, curator and main refurbisher. Quite a guy and he knows where every piece came from and why. The 1908 Buick below is one of his favorites cars, but he has many including some from tha ALCAN Hwy building like the ARMY Truck below. The little red truck is a 1951 Englsih Ford, the huge pistons had me going until a saw the sign. They are from generator that used to make the towns electric. Many small towns in Canada still use them today. There is an early snowmobile and the horns are two Moose that died after getting locked together, they had many furs and stuffed animals there too. The Army green “bull dozer” Cat is one that actually worked on the Alcan highway and the photo with Marl standing next to a small engine is his toy, it is a one cylinder engine and each time the exhaust fires it pushes the Coke can up a wire, seems to make him smile. There were many different rooms full of old equipment such as the telephone equipment.

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I was talking to a volunteer there and we were talking about the weather in Ft. Nelson and she said it gets down 20 or 30 below in the winter. She also was school teacher an said the kids can play outside down to 20 below and they sometimes take them out even colder. She said it was important that they get the kids get outside in the winter because school time was the only daylight they may see for several months. The roads are kept open all winter and there can be 3 to 5  feet of snow on the ground all winter too. A very interesting town with lots of History. After several hours in Ft Nelson I was ready to move on North. The weather had not really improved a whole lot, other than the mixed rain and snow had come to a stop.

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Soon after I leave Ft. Nelson I come upon another Black Bear, it doesn’t seem to paying much attention to me and won’t turn around. I already have plenty of Bear Butt pictures, I yell at it and that gets its attention, it turns towards me looking a bit miffed, I snap the photo and hop back in the Jeep. Soon I came to a small herd of Bison a distance field.

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In couple hours the landscape changes from the flat to Mountains again. A Rock formation is ahead resembling a Indians Head and so it is called Indian Head Mountain.

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Next I finally get a fair photo of a young Moose. They are the strangest animals, look as if they were made up of left over parts. Soon an Elk runs across the road and I get photo through the windshield.

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The economy has hit the restaurant and motel business pretty hard, although this business looks like it has been out of business for sometime, I have seen many businesses closed over the last few days. I m now in what is called the Stone Mountain Range and it is getting Colder as I climb higher.

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Next I come to Summit Lake where I had planned on camping. I get out of the car and a cold and steady wind is blowing as I check out the camp spots. Most of the lake is still frozen. It doesn’t take me long to realize that this place is too cold to stay, although one couple seems to be getting ready to stay in a tent trailer. In a short talk with them they said they had some propane heaters. My tent has no heater other than me, back in the Jeep and down the road. Over the next couple hours I check out a couple more parks, but nothing suits me. I drop down off the mountain and find a back road and sleep and eat in the back of the Jeep for the night. It’s been a really great day of interesting people, places, animals and views.

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June 1st 2009

After a big a dinner of Top Ramon, a good nights sleep and hot breakfast of  Oat meal ( LOL ).  actually that is what I had.. I’m up early and back on the road by 6:30 am, soon I come to a bridge across the Racing River  river, just as I cross the river a BIG Grizzly Bear ( my first )  comes running down the right bank runs right in front of Jeep and heads for the brush. With no place to stop I have to move a little farther up the road to pull over, by than the Bear is heading into the brush, wow  another Butt shot. But it was a big Butt. This somewhat poor picture shows the bear heading into the brush with its head on the left looking back

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Soon I come to a Cafe and I need another cup of coffee. A couple of the road construction workers ask me what part of Oregon I’m from. So in the conversation I tell them about my seeing a grizzly bear about 3 miles back down the road near where they were working. One guys says Hell ” I’ve been out here for 3 months and I’ve seen nothing but mosquitoes” , you drive through and see a bear and a grizzly bear at that. He said; I might tell the cafe owner, he has some cattle down there by the river. So I go back in and tell him about my siting, but he is not too concerned, says the bear won’t bother the cattle. But he does thank me and offers me a FREE refill on my coffee. On down the road I go and at 8:07 am I spot this Moose on the roadside. Seemed a bit shy, and kept one on me while I took its picture.

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 A little farther on and I come to this unusual Rock formation called “Folding Mountain”. The layers of the mountain appear to have been layed down in folds.

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At 8:11 am I see this Stone Ram Up on a hill-side. After several different shots of his you know  what, I get this nice shot of him looking back at me. These Sheep are called “Stone Sheep” and are pretty common in this area. Both male and female have horns, except the Males are larger and curl more. A lot has been happening fast here this morning, looks like another great start to a day!  

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Soon I come to Muncho Lake, a beautiful 7 mile long lake of amazing turquoise color. It’s only about 9 am, but I’m ready to stay here!  So I look around and find a nice spot over looking the lake. http://www.britishcolumbia.com/regions/towns/?townID=3616

Additional Photographs at : www.donsiebelphotography.com

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Shortly after getting set up this Pontoon plane came in for a landing, they were using this end of the lake to take off and land since the other end was still frozen. The only Lodge on the lake is the “Northern Rockies Lodge” where the Pontoon Plane  is normally based from. http://www.northern-rockies-lodge.com/

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PlaneMuncho9950060109blog Here he is taking off on this beautiful lake, was interesting seeing it come and go for a while, but did make a lot of noise. I met the Camp attendant for late Breakfast at a small cafe a couple miles away. My first REAL breakfast since started. Ham and eggs, the ham was about 5 inches by 8 inches and 1/2 inch thick. Home made bread for toast, and home-made hash brown potatoes. I ate it all, like a good little camper.  The camp attendants story was like many I would hear about. Visited Canada about 15 years and fell in love with the country, moved his family there and loves his work and the country.  After breakfast I went for a hike the attendant told me about and came upon these Stone Sheep on the way. I had a really great  place to set up my tent, over looking the Lake.

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My hike took me to the top of a hill that over looked Muncho Lake. As you look to the far end of the lake you can see it is still frozen, what a view. Took the rest of the day off and talked to a couple of other campers. Now have traveled 1799 miles.

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June 2nd,

After a nice quite evening watching the Sunset, I get an early start. Stop at the Lake one more time to get ice for my cooler. This picture of the lake shows how the ice formed small waves on the surface.

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At 7:15 am I come across a small herd of about 6 Bison, this big fellow seemed to be enjoying the morning sun. Next at 7:40 am I spot this smaller Black bear enjoying his morning stroll for breakfast.

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Soon I come the “Yukon” Border and within a few minutes I come to a Historic spot. Mile Post 585 on the Alcan Highway. This place is called “Contact Creek” . This is where the southern section was completed on 09/24/1942. An  Army group working from the Northwest and an Army group working from Dawson Creek meet at this spot, completing about 1030 miles in just under 7 months. The first truck to drive through took 71 hours. from Dawson Creek to get to White Horse. Average speed 15 miles per hour. The Yukon has 35,000 people living there and it is about the size of Oregon, 23,000 live in or around White Horse its biggest city. Canada has some of the greatest Sign.

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Here is a link with facts about the Yukon    http://www.saskschools.ca/~gregory/canada/facts/yt.html

I’m heading towards “Watson Lake” when I get this great view of the Alaska Mountain Range.

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A few miles south of Watson Lake I come upon another Black Bear and then a Bison eating alongside the road.

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About noon I come to Watson Lake, famous for its Signpost forest. Over 40, 000  city, town or state signs, licence plates and pieces of wood with names and dates nailed to posts.

http://www.bellsalaska.com/watsonlk.html

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I checked out several motels and end up at the Air Force Lodge.  http://www.airforcelodge.com/index.html   This was really a nice place and very reasonable too! A couple of the other motels were smelly (cigarettes) and dirty. Several were closed. I thought this sign was interesting, most likely stolen from the Borough of Plum, where ever that is. The Watson lake Hotel was closed due to economy I suspect. Did some laundry, washed my Jeep and restocked some food and visited several local attractions and got caught up on my e-mail.

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Had a BIG hamburger at local fast food. The cook/waiter/owner would keep throwing french fries out the open front door to a huge black raven, it would keep tossing the hot french fry in the air until it cooled enough too eat, once it did that it would craw for another. No one seemed to pay much attention to this other me ( the tourist ) . Tomorrow I leave the ALCAN Highway for a while a take the Campbell  Highway Northwest. { A 374 mile mostly gravel road that sort of parallels the Alcan highway. The highway follows the explorer Robert Campbell 1840 search for the a westward river to the coast for the Hudson’s Bay Co.}  We’ve heard that before. SEE NEW POST NUMBER 3 soon!   More Photos at www.donsiebelphotography.com

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